Rose Cut Diamond: Pros, Cons, Price & How to Choose

Having kept a low profile for quite some time now, the rose cut diamond is slowly making a comeback.

These unique diamonds, with their vintage aesthetic and rich history, may be just the thing for you… Particularly if you’re not one for a lot of flash or simply want something a little different.

What Is A Rose Cut Diamond?

Before we can properly explain what a rose cut diamond is, we need a quick word on terminology. A diamond’s shape is its outline and can be, among others, square, round, pear-shaped or oval. The term “cut”, meanwhile, refers to more subtle attributes, including its faceting, polish and proportions. (Note that the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, so it can get confusing!)

A rose cut diamond can come in a variety of shapes, but is rather defined by its cut. That is, rose cut diamonds have a flat base and a domed top, with a surface of triangle-shaped facets.

What Is The Origin And History Of Rose Cut Diamonds?

The rose cut diamond dates all the way back to the 16th Century and was highly fashionable in both the Georgian and Victorian eras. As it was first created before the advent of electricity, the rose cut diamond is designed to sparkle best under low light, such as that emitted from a candle.

Comparing Rose Cut Diamonds Vs Other Diamond Cuts

While there are a large variety of diamond cuts available, the type of diamond that you are likely to find in your average jewellery store is a brilliant cut. Here are the key differences between brilliant and rose cut diamonds:

Faceting

Whereas brilliant cut diamonds are characterised by large, flat tables, the rose cut diamond is known for its signature domed top. Correspondingly, the standard number of facets for brilliant cuts is between 57 and 58. The number of facets in the rose cut, meanwhile, can vary greatly, numbering anywhere between three and 27. The rose cut facets are always triangular.

Bottom Shape

The undersides of diamonds of varying cuts are very different. The more common brilliant cut, regardless of overall shape, features a cone-shaped bottom. The rose cut diamond, meanwhile, is characterised by its flat bottom. As a result, rose cut diamond jewellery generally rests closer to the skin than other cuts.

Profile & Proportions

Thanks to their level bottoms, rose cut diamonds have much flatter profiles than their brilliant cut counterparts. The result is that a rose cut diamond will be flush with its setting, while the brilliant cut, with its taller profile, will extend quite far above its setting.

Overall Shape

The flatter base of the rose cut diamond opens it up to much greater variety than other types in terms of shape. While other types of diamond cut do sometimes come in various shapes, these tend to be more limited. Brilliant cuts are technically not so limited, but the challenge of maximising faceting while preserving carat size does make this type of cut less amenable to shape variation, and you’re possibly going to have to pay more to get it.

Brilliance

The multiple facets and deep, cone-shaped base of a brilliant cut diamond are designed to capture and reflect as much light as possible. Hence, its dazzling sparkle. By contrast, the rose cut diamond, with its flat base and limited faceting, exudes a subtler luminescence – more like a glow than a sparkle.

Apparent Size

The flatter shape of the rose cut diamond enables the jeweller to spread the jewel horizontally, rather than vertically. The upshot of this is that rose cut diamonds generally appear (when observed from above or obliquely) larger than brilliant cuts of the same number of carats. If this seems confusing, remember that carats refer to weight rather than size. If you want a “bigger” rock on the same budget, go for a rose cut.

What Are The Pros And Cons Of Rose Cut Diamonds?

Pros

• Rose cut diamonds look bigger.
• heir brilliance is understated and translucent.
• They are quite rare so they are pretty unique.
• They are considerably more durable and less cumbersome than other cuts.
• They have a vintage aesthetic and a distinguished history to match.

Cons

• They are not as sparkly as the brilliant cut.
• Finding the right rose cut diamond for you can be a challenge because they are so uncommon.
• So their rarity is really a bit of a double-edged sword.
• They tend to have lots of imperfections and inclusions of other minerals because they are cut by hand and higher-quality gems tend to be reserved for brilliant cuts.
• Because of these imperfections, they are harder to quality control. (So it’s best to get your rose cut diamond from a dealer who specialises in antique diamonds.)

How To Measure And Select A Rose Cut Diamond

If you are in the market for a rose cut diamond, it is important to note that their value is object-driven. In other words, they cannot be evaluated simply with a re-cut formula in mind. It is quite difficult to calculate the carat and depth of a rose cut diamond because of their irregular shape. This difficulty is further exacerbated when the diamond is already mounted, usually in a closed-back mounting.

For this reason, one should not get bogged down in GIA or AGS ratings when purchasing a rose cut diamond. Rather focus on what looks good to you.

Buy from a reputable vendor specialising in antique diamonds and vintage cuts. Such a jeweller will be able to guide you to find a balance between certified quality and carat size and your own aesthetic preferences.

Also remember that clarity is more important than colour saturation when it comes to rose cut diamonds. Because rose cut diamonds are highly transparent and flattish, any flaws will be very obvious. A specialist jeweller can help you find a diamond with minimal inclusions that is still within your budget.

Your specialist jeweller will probably also suggest a vintage setting to best complement your rose cut diamond.

What Are The Best Ring Settings For Rose Cut Diamonds?

Because it is an antique cut, the rose cut diamond generally looks its best in a vintage setting, particularly from the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Some vintage settings to consider for your rose cut diamond include the solitaire, four prong, decorated band, halo, adorned, box, target, and buttercup.

You may also consider the bezel, which is the most secure setting and pairs well with the flatter rose cut. Of course, there are plenty of other diamond settings available too.

How Much Are Rose Cut Diamonds?

Like all diamonds, rose cut diamonds are priced based on the four Cs – cut, colour, clarity and carat. However, the aforementioned qualities of the rose cut make some of these tricky to assess (and sometimes kind of irrelevant).

Carat (the weight of the diamond) is generally the most important when calculating price. Usually, diamonds cost more, the more they weigh. Because rose cuts have flat bottoms, they will most often weigh (and so probably cost) less than a brilliant cut of the same table width.

For example, consider two 6.5mm diamonds, one a rose cut and the other a brilliant cut:

• Brilliant cut: Weighs roughly 1.00 carat, with an average price of US$6 000 – US$7 000 (but can range from $2 000 to over $20 000, depending on quality).
• Rose cut: May only weigh about .50 carat. So, all other things being equal, this stone would cost half the price of the brilliant cut diamond.

What Does A Rose Cut Diamond Say About You?

Although anyone can buy a rose cut diamond, only some do. They do cater to a rather niche market. If you choose a rose cut diamond, it probably means that you are a little more alternative in your inclinations. You are likely quite sentimental and possibly even a bit old-fashioned. You prefer to subtly sparkle from the sidelines rather than take centre stage, and can appreciate the little imperfections of life.

How Popular Are Rose Cut Diamonds In The US And Around The World?

After steadily decreasing in popularity since the advent of electricity and more advanced cutting techniques, the rose cut is now making a quiet comeback. Nevertheless, rose cut diamonds remain quite rare – only 0.1% of all modern diamonds become rose cuts.

So, for now, the majority of rose cut diamonds on the market are antiques. As demand increases, however, so does the volume of new rose cuts being produced so there are bound to be more modern rose cut diamonds produced over the coming years.